Renewable Design for melamine tumblers to Sri Lanka Factory

FAQ: 1.Q: Where is your factory located? How can I visit there? A: Our factory is located in Guangdong province, China. Warmly welcome to visit us! 2.Q: What is the material of your products? A: The material is melamine.  3.Q: How can I get some samples? A: We can send the samples by Express/DHL/FedEx/UPS etc. 4.Q: How does your company do regarding quality control? A: We have a very strict QC system. Our inspectors have been closely monitoring the production process from the selection of raw materials to the final step of the finished products. 5.Q: Can you print our logo on the product & packing? A: Yes, We can print your logo on our products.

‘Tells the story of development of Bakelite materials and rapid expansion of uses for these man-made products since 1909 when discovery was first made. Film demonstrates the extent to which plastics have become an integral part of daily experience.

Scientist explains to a curious reporter the inventions of Dr. Baekeland…

CU landing boat plane.

Scientist in white lab coat being interviewed by reporter…

Scientist hands reporter a test tube filled with solid plastic which he describes as “an exact duplicate of the one first cast by Dr. Baekeland in his own laboratory in 1907″…

Pan over Bakelite factory in Bound Brook, New Jersey…

CU machine cutting small puck-shaped disks of bakelite material…

VS Bakelite molding material…

CU disembodied hand holding electric shaver in Bakelite casing shaves man’s face.

CU back of brunette woman’s head as she dries her hair with an electric hair dryer made of bakelite plastic material.

VS CU worker places two mold blanks into round mold…

VS machine presses in Bakelite factory producing various bakelite pieces including automotive pieces…

Collage shot of six different disembodied hands tuning various antique radios in one frame…

Pan over electrical substation.

VS CU machine presses; disembodied hand removes bakelite part from mold…

CU disembodied hand plugs antique cord into wall outlet.

CU disembodied hand plugs power cord into electric iron.

CU woman places bakelite top onto kettle.

CU ash tray beside open cigarette box…

CU man pours tobacco from tin into his pipe.

CU bottom of man’s cleats with bakelite spikes as man ties them.

CU golf ball struck by driver.

CU man screwing on back of flashlight; man models flashlight for camera.

CU Hoover vacuum cleaner moving over rug.

CU VS tray of bakelite blanks are placed into machine press…

CU disembodied hand unscrews toothpaste cap with hand holding toothbrush.

CU disembodied hand opens rectangular bakelite box revealing carving knife and fork.

CU clock made of bakelite material…

CU woman’s face looking through small camera.

CU disembodied hand takes reel of film out of canister filled with liquid, camera and leather camera case lay on table behind film reel.

CU disembodied hand sprays soda water into glass with gin, ice bucket and bottle of gin in background of shot.

CU composition of martini glasses and martini shaker, disembodied hand begins to unscrew top of martini shaker.

Disembodied hand on antique intercom, edge of man’s face enters edge of frame speaking into intercom.

CU disembodied hands pull board out of case, text “Bakelite Transparent Materials” is superimposed on the board.

CU bucket of creamy liquid…

CU disembodied hand carving bakelite bracelet…

Pipe salesman selling man bakelite pipe mouthpiece…
“No sir it’s called bakelite resinoid”

VS inside paper mill producing long sheets of bakelite laminated paper…

MS woman working on assembling line…

CU disembodied hand lifts large power switch; VS inside power plant, long row of early twentieth century alternators.

CU spinning gears.

CU tray with three martini glasses…

VS production of Bakelite lacquers…

VS inside factory producing Bakelite resinoid bonded abrasive wheels.

VS workers using powered abrasive wheels to sand frame of 1940s car on assembly line.

VS plywood production using bakelite plywood bonding materials; VS plywood products, tables, trays, radios.

CU canister of Luxene resinoid…

TWA airplane with name “Skysleeper” painted in its side takes off.

CU boiling flask, VS of scientists working in laboratories superimposed into the flask, followed by an infinity symbol and the Bakelite logo.’

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bakelite

Bakelite, or polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride, is an early plastic. It is a thermosetting phenol formaldehyde resin, formed from an elimination reaction of phenol with formaldehyde. It was developed by Belgian-born chemist Leo Baekeland in New York in 1907.

One of the first plastics made from synthetic components, Bakelite was used for its electrical nonconductivity and heat-resistant properties in electrical insulators, radio and telephone casings, and such diverse products as kitchenware, jewelry, pipe stems, and children’s toys…

The complete process of how to build a concrete table without any specialty tools. It’s an affordable way to make high end and beautiful furniture. For the complete tutorial and materials list check out DIYPETE.com. Please note that

For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:

http://www.diypete.com/how-to-build-a-concrete-table/

The buffet table I made is 17″wide by 52″ long by 1.5″ thick. Here is a diagram showing how I made the mold.

Cut the bottom of the mold out of melamine using a circular saw
This piece should be the exact width and length you’d like the concrete table to be.

Cut the strips that will border the bottom piece
If you want a 1.5″ thick concrete slab, add 3/4″ to the strips so they are 2.25″ tall. This accommodates for the bottom of the mold.

Assemble the sides of the mold.
Attach using 1 5/8 inch black drywall screws about every 8-12 inches. Drill a pilot hole to help it go in easier. Make sure to drill in from the side as evenly as possible.

Complete the mold
Once assembled, the mold will look like the photo below. You will now have a structure which concrete can be poured in. Note — the actual top of your concrete table will be very smooth because it will cure against the smooth and flat melamine surfaces. The part that you screed and trowel later on will actually be the bottom side. You will flip the mold once the project has cured.

Caulk the creases in your mold.
In the video I use a squeeze tube of 100% silicon caulk. You can also use a caulk gun. Then run a caulk tool to smooth it out. You can also use painters tape to get an even caulk line as pictured below.

Cut Re-enforcement
Once the caulk has cured, go ahead and cut the re-enforcement to size using a bolt cutter. If your table is 52″ long by 17″ in width, cut the metal wiring to about 50″ by 15″. It will leave about an inch of play on each side. Then use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to thoroughly clean the mold, making sure all sawdust and particles are out of the mold.

It’s time to mix up the concrete. Follow the directs on the bag to see how much water they recommend adding. I like to pour some water into the tub prior to the concrete to minimize dust. Wear a dust mask for this process because the particles are not good to breathe. Mix 1 or 2 bags of concrete at a time. To stir up the concrete use a small shovel or garden hoe. I like to mix it to a peanut butter consistency.

Pack Concrete
Take a handful of concrete (wearing your rubber gloves of course), and start packing the concrete into the mold. *Don’t forget to make sure your work table is as level as possible prior to packing the concrete.

Add Re-enforcement
Once the mold is filled up a little more than half way you’ll want to add the re-enforcement. Simply put the re-enforcement in place and then finish packing the rest of the mold with concrete.

Fill and screed
Fill the mold with concrete until it is full. Take an old 2×4 or straight piece of wood and screed off the excess to level out the concrete. Move the 2×4 in a sawing motion. Continue back and forth across the entire mold (multiple times) and fill in any low spots with extra concrete. Check that your work table is still level. You can always shim if needed.

Remove concrete from the mold
Remove all the drywall screws. Next, take a chisel and slowly pry the wood side away from the concrete. Make sure not to let the chisel (or flathead screwdriver ) touch the concrete.

Flip the concrete and remove top of mold
Slowly flip the concrete. It helps to have two people. I like to take a few shop rags or foam to put under the concrete so when it is flipped vertically there is something for it to rest softly on. Continue flipping the piece and rest it on a few spare boards. Resting it on boards that are evenly spaced will allow the piece to dry thoroughly.

Sand concrete
Use an orbital sander to smooth the piece. You will expose a few more bug holes but that is okay. Run the sander on the sides and corners as well. The top edges will be pretty rough. You’ll fill in the rough area with portland cement after this process.

Apply Sealer
Use a clean rag and get any remaining dust off the concrete. Next, find a new rag and use it to apply a stone or concrete sealer. These can be found at a local hardware store. Read the instructions to find out the best way to apply the sealer. Once the sealer drys I like to wax the piece.
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Pete Sveen
1627 W Main Street Suite 182
Bozeman, Montana 59715